Mar 21, 2012

SOMARTA 2012-2013 AW

I noticed change with former immediately from beginning. I expect the theme "Geord" [cave of a crystal] that this SOMARTA collection is warm and forcible.and passage side which wants to sit on the place which is surely visible to head to food. Because I was hearing collaboration with NORITAKA TATEHANA this time also. 
始まりから今までとの変化にすぐ気がついた。”Geord"[結晶の洞窟]、今回のコレクションがどこか暖かく力強いのではないか、と期待させるテーマ。どうしても足下まで見える場所に座りたい、、、と通路そばの席に。そう、今回もNORITAKA TATEHANAとのコラボレーションと聞いていたから。

"Sita Skin Series" completely unified to the step.
The meaning which has worn Noritaka Tatehana's heelless shoes can be seen clearly. I tought this new Skin Series called "Botanica" is beautiful when I see it at first. The thing with these interesting shoes thinks the body in which the heel becomes a form connected with a leg, when there is no heel. And I like that the structure of an animal [ like a horse ] of four-foot walk whose it is, and near beauty. (As for this, the subjectivity to which I love a horse supremely may also be large…) It can be seen clearly by this time collection. The design which the flower has wrapped to the tip of a foot. And "OrganicBoots" of the new form which covers a leg by a graphic pattern like a boots cover. A monotone, beige, red. Although I felt also in Paris collection, one of the trend color of 2012-13AW is red. I feel warm feminine red forcible by SOMARTA 2012-13AW. Not the red of a glaringly vivid flame but the wet calm flame of a previous work. It is like a rose or a cockscomb of flowers. The uncanny delicate off-white which looks simultaneous. A dress like a delicate petal which is transparent dances. The vitality and loveliness which a flower has continued at the showtime. The expression which has a new profound feeling by a headdress appeared, and the dress of the monotone which knits and forms a new form was reminded me of the large flower.

足下まで完全に一体化したSita Skin Series。舘鼻則孝氏のヒールレスシューズを履いている意味がはっきりと見える。”Botanica"というこの新しいSkin Seriesは純粋に美しい。舘鼻氏の靴が面白いのは、ヒールがないことによって踵が足と繋がるフォルムになるところではないか。それが馬のような、四足歩行の動物の構造と近い美しさがあって好きだった。(これは馬をこよなく愛する主観も大きいかもしれないが。)
今回のSomartaでそれがはっきりと見えている。花が足先までも包んでいるデザイン。そして、足をブーツカバーのようなグラフィックパターンで覆う新しいフォルムの“Organic Boots"。モノトーン、ベージュ、赤。パリコレでも感じたのですが、2012-13AWのトレンドカラーのひとつは赤。Somartaも暖かく女性的な、でも力強い赤を感じた。前作の鮮烈な炎の赤ではなく、しっとりとした落ち着いた炎。バラや鶏頭のような。同時に見えるすごく繊細なオフホワイト。透け感があって舞う、繊細な花びらの様なドレス。花が持つ生命力と可憐さが続く。編み込んで新しいフォルムを形成するモノトーンのドレスは、ヘッドドレスで新しい重厚感のある表情が現れて大輪の花を連想した。

This collection that was boiled markedly and was gently carried out from usual as the theme "Geord" and that makes the warmly calm female image imagine.The form with a feeling of omission in which a lovely material also wraps all was beauty like the mother who watches calmly which wraps all delicately.
I love this collection to visit carefully at a show about this material.
It is pleasure about the show coverage in April.



"Geord" [結晶の洞窟]



優しさ 暖かさ 強さ 激しさ

(SOMARTA 2012-13 AW themaより)



posted by Junko

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